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Here’s a good Jeopardy question: What is the only U.S. community that has played host to the Winter Olympics twice? Hint: it is in New York.
If you guessed Lake Placid, in the heart of the Adirondacks, you would be on the money. It hosted the games in 1932 and 1980. The village has long been known as an Olympic training center and bills itself as “America’s first winter resort.”
In this unusual year, when last summer’s Olympic games will be followed just seven months later by the winter games in February, the Olympics are definitely on the world stage.
The Olympic Development Authority operates many of the major facilities and they make it easy for even the non-athlete to get a taste of Olympic sports.
Lake Placid is legendary for big mountains, big views, and big history. It is very much a year-round destination, but leaf peepers extol the splendid views of mountains and lakes ablaze with color in the fall.
The weather is still warm enough for playing outside — biking, hiking, boating, or viewing the breathtaking show of leaves. Just be prepared for sometimes dramatic changes in weather. On one memorable October visit we were wearing shorts in the morning and by the evening there was a dusting of snow.
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The biggest attraction for me has always been Mirror Lake, one of the magical gems of the Adirondack Park. The village of Lake Placid overlooks the lake and it is just a mile long and a half-mile wide. It is crystal clear, and no gas motors are allowed. One of my favorite Mirror Lake experiences is swimming out in the middle of the lake on a perfect summer afternoon — the only lake where I would feel safe doing this because there are no jet skis or motorboats.
The lake’s name comes from its resemblance to a mirror. When gazing out on the glimmering waters you will easily be able to see the reflection of the mountains and village, as well as the sunrise. And what other lake has a public toboggan run that ends up on the frozen lake in winter?
Next to Mirror Lake is the larger Lake Placid, on the northern side of the village. It is five and a half miles long and two and a half miles wide. The best way to experience the lake is to take a tour with Lake Placid Boat Tours. Our captain and narrator was Aaron Cook who filled us with fun lake lore as we cruised along the 16-mile route on the pristine waters.
We learned about the 35-pound lake trout recently caught here. “It was a record and estimated to be 70 years old and is back swimming along,” Cook explained.
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We passed the late John Bogle’s (founder of the Vanguard Group) great camp as well as the late singer Kate Smith’s massive camp with one of her gleaming wooden boats still in the boathouse. We paused in front of Whiteface Mountain — the most prominent on the lakeshore.
“We have more than 200 wooden boats on the lake — the most of any other lake on a per capita basis,” said Cook.
Hiking trails abound in the area from the 2.7-mile flat path around Mirror Lake to expert level mountain trails. The Adirondacks are home to the largest trail system in the nation. They are also home to New York’s highest lake: the poetically named Lake Tear of the Clouds. It lies in a pass separating Mount Skylight and Mount Marcy, the state’s highest mountain. It is also the highest water source to feed the mighty Hudson River.
Whiteface Mountain fits the bill if you want a summit view of the high peaks but would rather have your car do the work. It’s the fifth highest of the high peaks (4,867 feet) and the only one accessible by car. A battle raged after World War I between environmentalists and the American Legion over the creation of the highway. The Legion felt that at least one peak should be accessible by car and that the highway to it should be dedicated to New York’s war dead.
The eight-mile-long Whiteface Mountain Veterans Memorial Highway (a toll road operated by the Olympic Authority) stops 500 feet short of the summit. The last five miles are the most spectacular as the road winds upward through a changing forest and an alpine summit environment. At the summit parking area, take a short hike to the very top or hop on the in-mountain elevator for an amazing 360-degree view of the surrounding wilderness. There’s a restaurant and gift shop in the castle building near the top.
On a clear day you can see forever or about 125 miles. To the north you may be able to spot the skyline of Montreal. To the east, across Lake Champlain are the Green Mountains of Vermont. And everywhere there are more mountains, lakes, and streams.
Lowell Thomas, the late, legendary world traveler and writer, once described the view from on top of Whiteface Mountain as “one of the great scenic vistas of the world.” On a clear day it is hard to argue with his assessment.
The Olympic venues are undergoing renovations and improvements. The project is designed to prepare the sites for hosting the 2023 World University Games.
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The Olympic Jumping Complex offers everyone the chance to experience the view that Olympic ski jumpers and hopefuls see during their training and competitions. Hop on board the 8-person Skyride, a gondola, followed by a ride on the glass-enclosed elevator 26 stories high.
Once on top, there is a small display area inside with videos of Olympic competitions. As someone with a fear of heights I was nervous about venturing outside and up the stairs to the actual ski jump. But I did it and I will never watch ski jump competitions the same way again. The view was truly awesome.
Next door we watched as Olympic hopefuls practiced their flips by jumping from a tower and ending up in a pool.
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Over at the newly transformed Mt. Van Hoevenberg check out the new lodge, The Mountain Pass where you can relax, get tickets, enjoy the views from expansive windows and watch the mountain activities. There are miles of cross-country ski trails and a state-of-the-art combined skeleton and bobsled track.
But what draws visitors now is the new Cliffside Coaster. This is a coaster with a difference. Once you reach the top you have the ability to go as slow or as fast as you would like.
“We are incredibly excited to give our guests their exhilarating experience,” said Mike Pratt, president and CEO of the Olympic Regional Development Authority. “The coaster follows the alignment of the 1932 and 1980 Olympic Bobsled track as it descends the mountain. The views are amazing and the curves get your heart pounding. Everyone will feel like they deserve a medal.”
Hockey fans everywhere retain a special place in their hearts for the famous 1980 “Miracle on Ice” when the young American team beat the heavily favored Russian team to win the gold medal. The 1980 Herb Brooks Arena where that game was played is undergoing major renovations.
The Olympic Museum and Olympic Center Store is open for free on the second level of the Conference Center during the construction project. The museum is the second largest collection of winter Olympics in the world.
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Learn about Lake Placid’s connection to the anti-slavery movement at John Brown Farm State Historic Site, just outside the village. This is both the home and grave of abolitionist John Brown who was tried and executed after his attempted raid on the U.S. Arsenal at Harper’s Ferry, Virginia on Oct. 16, 1859.
Many know the song “John Brown’s body lies a mouldering in the grave,” but don’t connect it with this simple farm in the Adirondacks. Brown’s goal was to capture the arms and use them in his campaign to free the slaves in the South. Admission is free and there are hiking trails as well as tours of the house and barn.
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Lake Placid boasts the largest array of accommodations in the Adirondacks, a legacy of the Olympics. The Golden Arrow Lakeside Resort is the perfect choice for families including children and dogs. All are welcome and it occupies a choice spot on Mirror Lake and Main Street.
Many rooms on the first floor open to the beach and an array of complimentary kayaks, paddle boards, water bikes, canoes and beach toys that are waiting. It’s hard to beat an early morning paddle across the lake. There’s an indoor pool for cooler weather and all rooms have refrigerators and microwaves.
Sam, my Labrador retriever, quickly made both canine and human friends, including five-year-old Georgia who was visiting with her family from Cheektowaga.
“This was our first visit but we will be back — it has been wonderful for the whole family,” her mother said.
Travel Tip of the Month: For information on the Lake Placid area visit lakeplacid.com or call 518-523-2445. For information on the Golden Arrow Lakeside Resort visit golden-arrow.com or call 844-209-8080.
The Lake Placid Boat Tours close for the season on Columbus Day and many of the summer Olympic activities end the following weekend on Oct. 17. Capacity is limited for some Olympic activities such as the Cliffside Coaster and purchasing tickets in advance is recommended.
Deborah Williams is a veteran travel writer whose work has appeared in national and international publications. She lives in Holland, NY and is the recipient of the Society of American Travel Writers’ Lowell Thomas Gold Travel Writing Award.