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Family Travel Ganonoque
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The Thousand Islands along the mighty St. Lawrence River are a water lover’s mecca. With 1,864 islands, many parks on both the Canadian and New York sides of the border, clear waters that beckon divers and fishing enthusiasts, a magnificent fairytale castle towering over Heart Island, and multiple fun ways to view and experience the river, this region attracts visitors from around the world.
The family-friendly area once belonged mostly to the Gilded Age rich, but now can be enjoyed by everyone. It is an easy four-hour drive from Buffalo for a weekend or longer adventure. Prices are reasonable and American visitors benefit from the favorable exchange rate.
Just back from my latest visit, the region remains one of my favorites. As a water lover, I was in my element. My weekend was spent on the water or viewing the ever changing river from a number of vantage points.
For the first time my base was Gananoque, a small, delightfully old-fashioned town that bills itself as the “Canadian Gateway to the 1000 Islands.” It also is proud of its two UNESCO designated sites: the Frontenac Arch Biosphere and the Rideau Heritage Route.
My first discovery was the weekly Thursday Farmer’s Market next to the stately Town Hall. It displays the area’s diversity. Among the dozen or so stands, visitors could enjoy Syrian, Indian, or Ukrainian food specialties. Vendors were cooking the food on the spot so visitors could grab a dish and sit at one of the picnic tables while listening to live music.
The Thousand Island Playhouse boasts a breathtaking location on the river, two theaters, and docks for patrons coming by water. It provided the evening’s entertainment with “Buddy, the Buddy Holly Story.” The playhouse bills itself as “Canada’s Dockside Theatre” and the season continues through October 14. The schedule appeals to all ages and, if our experience is any indication, visitors can look forward to a highly professional and entertaining performance. There are matinees on Wednesdays and the weekends.
The next morning we were up early for our kayaking adventure. It was a perfect morning with little wind, ample sunshine and smooth waters. Many in our group were first timers including two brothers, one 10 and the other 12, who were kayaking with their parents. We were kayaking with 1000 Islands Kayaking on a half-day tour. The kayaking company operates a wide variety of tours and has extensive experience with children since it runs a kayak camp and hosts school and scout groups.
David Frost, a certified instructor, was our guide for the morning with Liam, his assistant, watching out for the back of the pack. Our adventure started with some basic lessons on the lawn and then we proceeded to the water. We generally hugged the shores except when we needed to cross a bay. Frost kept us together for the crossing and checked to make sure no boats were coming.
Soon after paddling out from the marina we converged in a secluded bay for some additional pointers on paddling and turning. Then, once we had the all-clear signal, we crossed the main channel and made our way to our destination: Mudlunta Island.
There in shallow waters was the wreckage of the Briton, a coal schooner built in 1872. After her cargo hauling and party days were over, she was sunk in a New Year’s Eve fire. The massive timbers from the ship’s hull were clearly visible. She is just one of hundreds of wrecks that draw divers to the area.
Nearby, painted and map turtles were sunning themselves on a large log and did not seem to mind a closer look.
Our next stop was Half Moon Bay, since 1887 the scene of unique religious gatherings on Sunday afternoons in July and August. It can boast that this very special spot has the highest cathedral roof in the world. As a bay of carved rock in Bostwick Island, there is no roof at all since it is open to the heavens.
Before the 4pm service begins, boaters idle and paddle into the bay, gathering in front of the rough block pulpit. Hymnbooks and a donation basket are passed from boat to boat. Church leaders from the community take turns leading the services. There is often a choir and music. For those needing a boat ride to the service there is a shuttle from the Water St. dock next to the kayak office from 3-3:30 pm.
David Wallace, who owned the island, donated the bay to the town of Gananoque after his death, on the condition that services are held there on Sundays throughout the summer months.
Our final stop was McDonald Island, part of Thousand Island National Park, one of Canada’s oldest national parks. Kim Robinson, Visitor Experience Manager for the park, explained that the park was created in 1904 in an era when wealthy visitors had purchased many islands.
“People were concerned that there needed to be public lands so the average citizen could enjoy this beautiful area,” Robinson said. “There are 20 serviced islands included in the park with campgrounds and other services.”
Back in town near the kayak office is a small sand beach and a splash park — perfect for smaller children.
The next adventure was up in the air with Bill Fox, our pilot with 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours. Fox is a retired Air Force pilot and our entire ride was smooth and exhilarating as we surveyed the islands and waters below. The company offers a variety of tours year round including flights over Boldt Castle.
A sunset dinner cruise with the Gananoque Boat Line was our final marine adventure of the day. It had it all: a delicious dinner, local entertainment, a lovely sunset, and a tour of Boldt
Castle. We passed the lavish homes of the rich and famous and learned stories of the area.
What exactly defines an island in this area? It must be above water 365 days a year and it must support a living tree. The smallest is Tom Thumb Island, located just upriver of the Canadian span of the Thousand Islands Bridge. With just one tree and only a few square feet staying above water all year, Tom Thumb just makes the cut.
The international border does not divide any islands. Every island is either wholly within the United States or Canada causing the border to zigzag across the water. However, some people own two islands — connected by a small bridge and sometimes each is in a different country.
The signature attraction of the entire region is Boldt Castle, which has been owned and operated by the Thousand Islands International Bridge Authority since 1978.
In 1900 George C. Boldt, millionaire proprietor of the world famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, set out to build a full-size Rhineland castle on an island off Alexandria Bay. The family had fallen in love with the region after spending holidays here. The grandiose six-story, 120-room structure was to be a display of his love for his wife, Louise.
Tragically, just as the exterior of the massive stone castle was nearing completion, Louise died at age 42 in January, 1904. Boldt telegraphed the island and commanded the hundreds of workers to immediately stop all construction, leaving the interior unfinished. A broken-hearted Boldt never returned to the island.
For nearly 75 years, the castle and various stone structures were left to the mercy of the wind, rain, ice, snow, and vandals. The stunning restoration of the castle and other structures hits its 40-year milestone this year. The work has topped more than $45 million and leaves visitors in awe.
New rooms are continually being restored to their intended grandeur as the work and maintenance goes on. Since my last visit, the kitchen and servants’ dining room have been meticulously transformed. The grounds and gardens are beautifully maintained.
While touring the castle, be sure to stop in the media room for the short film on Boldt’s life. He arrived in New York at age 13 as a penniless immigrant from Prussia. He started working as a dishwasher and went on to become one of the richest people in the country. According to the film, Boldt is credited with inventing room service and coined the term the “customer is always right.”
Across the water on Wellesley Island is Boldt’s impressive Yacht House that once housed his collection of 60 boats. A shuttle boat operates from Boldt Castle to the Yacht House. It is also possible to drive to the boathouse since the first span of the Thousand Islands International Bridge crosses between the mainland and Wellesley Island.
There is a collection of antique wooden boats, some from the original Boldt fleet, on display, courtesy of the Antique Boat Museum in nearby Clayton.
The Bridge is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year with a party from 10am to 3pm on August 18 at Collins Landing. There will be a vintage car show, historical presentations, entertainment by the Brockville Drum & Pipe Band and the 10th Mountain Division Band from nearby Fort Drum, ice cream, and complimentary memorabilia.
It is a bridge like no other. It extends from Collins Landing near Alexandria Bay, New York to Ivy Lea near Gananoque, Ontario, covering a distance 8.5 miles with five spans. After crossing over the bridge into Canada, take the Thousand Islands Parkway, which hugs the shore of the St. Lawrence River rather than Highway 401 that does not provide any view of the river and its delights.
The next day was another watery adventure but this was a very different experience: cruising on the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Rideau Canal. What sets this waterway apart is its rich history. The oldest continuously operated canal in North America, the locks work today much as they did when they first opened in 1832. It connects Kingston with Ottawa, Canada’s capital.
Captain Luc, operator of Rideau Tours, welcomed us onboard his 12-passenger pontoon boat that runs daily through mid-October. Cruises begin at Chaffey’s Lock and the three-lock tour includes Chaffey’s, Davis and Jones Falls Locks. The canal was one of the first designed for steam powered vessels and was originally built for military purposes after the War of 1812. The area is still sparsely developed and we spotted a great blue heron and an osprey as we motored along — often the only boat in the area.
Travel Tip of the Month: For information on Gananoque visit 1000islandstourism.com or call 613-381-8427. There is a wide range of accommodations including many campgrounds. For information on the entire region go to www.visit1000islands.comor call 800-847-5263. Don’t forget necessary paperwork for crossing into Canada.
Deborah Williams is a veteran travel writer whose work has appeared in national and international publications. She lives in Holland, NY, and is the winner of the Society of American Travel Writers Lowell Thomas Gold Travel Writing Award. Learn more at www.deborahwilliams.com.