Alexandria, Virginia, just five miles across the Potomac River from Washington, D.C., bills itself as “extraordinary Alexandria” and it is indeed quite a special place that is most welcoming to visitors of all types including families, children, and dogs.
This is George Washington’s adopted hometown and there is something quite extraordinary about exploring his many haunts that help bring history and the father of our country alive.
It is a perfect home base for touring the area since downtown D.C. is a 15-minute Metro ride from Alexandria. There are also regular water taxi rides to the National Mall. Just eight miles down the George Washington Parkway is Mount Vernon, Washington’s beloved home.
The beautifully preserved Old Town area of Alexandria is rich in history, with more than 1,000 preserved and restored 18th and 19th century buildings. The city is named for a Scottish merchant, John Alexander, who owned much of the land. It was founded in 1749 by two other Scotsmen, John Carlyle and William Ramsay, and emerged as a flourishing seaport in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
Start your visit at the 1724 Ramsay House, 221 King Street, the city’s visitor’s center. Guided tours led by costumed guides begin here. Nightly ghost tours are popular. There is an orientation film, information, and reservation service for hotels and attractions and guides ready to provide information and answer questions.
The new PBS drama “Mercy Street” has spawned a host of tours, exhibits, and special events throughout the city. Set in 1862, “Mercy Street” follows the lives of two volunteer nurses on opposite sides of the conflict, Mary Phinney, a staunch New England abolitionist, and Emma Green, a young Confederate belle. The two collide at Mansion House Hospital, the Green’s family’s luxury hotel that had been taken over as a Union Army Hospital.
The idea for “Mercy Street” began with the Mansion House, today known as the Carlyle House. For the most part it focuses on its colonial history as a house museum. The luxurious home was completed in 1752.
Today, visitors to the Carlyle House can also learn about the real stories and people that inspired “Mercy Street” in second floor exhibits. The large hotel addition across the front lawn of the Carlyle House that served as the hospital was removed in the 1970s. “Who these Wounded Are: The Extraordinary Stories of the Mansion House Hospital” is a new exhibit featuring the stories of the site and hospital. There are patients’ letters, a photo album of nurses and doctors, and photos of the hospital.
The Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary remained open and operational while Alexandria was occupied during the Civil War. Pharmacist Edward Stabler opened it in 1792 and the family operated the business until 1933. More than 15,000 objects remain in the museum’s collection.
Do you have a Harry Potter fan in the family? Kids can see Harry Potter inspired potion ingredients like dragon’s blood and Mandrake root at the museum.
Our guide Ken Miller, whose earlier life included a stint as chairman at the State University at Albany Pharmacy School, pointed out a handwritten request to Stabler from George’s wife, Martha, for his “finest castor oil.” We learn how many women were addicted to laudanum (liquid opium) that was easily available and regularly prescribed. Miller showed us crude looking metal instruments used to bleed patients including Washington. Experts believe excessive bleeding treatments probably contributed to his death.
Market Square in front of the City Hall began life in 1753 as an open field used by locals including George Washington to sell produce, animals, and slaves. It was here that Washington drilled his militia troops more than 250 years ago. It is now home to the country’s longest continually-operated market.
As a 17-year-old surveyor, George Washington helped design the pattern for the main streets and byways of the town. He served as a volunteer at the Friendship Fire Engine Company. Later he bought the original fire engine for the city in 1775 for about $400. A mile up King Street is the Washington Masonic National Memorial where visitors can see the clock stopped by Washington’s physicians at 10:20 pm, the moment of his death.
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Visitors can also worship in Christ Church, Washington’s church; and dine in Gadsby’s Tavern advertising fine dining since 1770, and offering menus enjoyed by Washington, John Adams, and Thomas Jefferson. It was here that General and Mrs. Washington danced at the birthday ball in his honor. Next door is Gadsby’s Tavern Museum.
Mount Vernon, the most popular and top-rated house museum in the country, is a must-see for the whole family (including dogs). Canines are allowed everywhere except for the mansion itself. Be sure to check out the special tours and daily activities. Many are designed with kids in mind. The Pioneer Farm with heritage animals including sheep and goats offers a taste of 18th century farm life. Meet the farm animals and watch farming demonstrations.
Free movies are shown throughout the day including “General Washington, Commander in Chief,” a 20-minute 4D experience where you will be immersed in the Revolutionary War. The Hands-on-History Center has more kid-friendly activities including story hours, crafts, and games. On Fridays and Saturdays, the resident fifer offers a musical demonstration and discussion of the importance of the music during the Revolution.
Mansion tours reveal Washington’s creativity as an architect and designer. He acquired the property in 1754. Until his death in the master bedroom on December 14, 1799, he expanded his home to reflect his status as a Virginia gentleman. He oversaw every detail of design, construction, and decoration. The vivid paint colors throughout the house surprise many visitors but they are the same ones selected by Washington. The 14 rooms open to the public are furnished with original objects as well as 18th century antiques similar to those found in the home at the time.
Touring the elegant and comfortable home and gazing across the riverfront expanse, it is easy to understand Washington’s feelings that prompted him to write:
“I can truly say I had rather be at home at Mount Vernon with a friend or two about me, than to be attended at the seat of government by the officers of State and the representatives of every power in Europe.”
One of the great wonders of Mount Vernon is that the view of the lawn, Potomac River, and land across the water is essentially just as it was in Washington’s day.
On Saturdays during April-June and September-October Mount Vernon offers a unique tour: called “All the President’s Pups Walking Tour.” Dogs are invited on this hour-long tour. Visitors learn about Washington’s love for dogs. Regarding his dogs, he had a sense of humor and a tender side. Some of his favorite dogs were a hound named Sweetlips and a Dalmatian named Madame Moose. Others included Tipsey, Mopsey, Truelove, and Ragman.
Speaking of dogs, Alexandria rates number one among dog-friendly cities. In addition to a most special welcome at Mount Vernon, many of the hotels are dog-friendly.
The Hotel Monaco in the heart of Old Town welcomes dogs and all pets as long as they fit through the door. There are no extra charges and treats are provided upon check-in. Every Tuesday during the spring, summer, and fall, the hotel hosts a fun for all Doggy Happy Hour with lots of free treats for dogs. Many hotel guests plan their visits to coincide with the Happy Hours. Locals bring their dogs. Dogs are also welcome at the nightly wine hour in the lobby as well as the Kids Happy Hour.
“Where else can both dogs and people have a good drink and laugh together?” asks Sandra Tellingsworth, an Alexandria resident who regularly brings her beagle Smokey to the happy hours. “It’s just one of those novel things you’ve got to love about living in a city of dog lovers.”
Come without a pet? Ask to have a goldfish brought to your room. There are movie nights at the hotel pool and complimentary bikes.
Just five blocks from the hotel is the waterfront and a dog park. Many businesses along the mile long King St., the main thoroughfare of Old Town, offer water bowls for dogs as well as jars full of dog treats. My Labrador retriever Sam quickly found where all the treats were located.
The Torpedo Factory Art Center occupies a prominent spot on the waterfront and welcomes dogs (and families) into the largest collection of publicly accessible working artist studios in the U.S. Founded in an old munitions plant, it is also home to the Alexandria Archaeology Museum.
Always wanted to take your dog on the water? The Potomac River Boat Company offers a number of boat tours including a most popular once a month Saturday morning canine cruise. The hour cruise takes passengers through the seaport. Dogs are free and the cruises operate through October with a Halloween cruise with prizes for best dog costumes.
Travel Tip of the Month: For information on Alexandria go to visitalexandriava.com or call 703-746-3301 or 800-388-9119. For Mount Vernon visit mountvernon.org or call 703-780-2000. For the Hotel Monaco visit Monaco-alexandria.com or call 703-549-6080.
Deborah Williams is a veteran travel writer who lives in Holland, NY. Her work has appeared in national and international publications and she is the author of “The Erie Canal: Exploring New York’s Great Canals.”